From the book "The stories of the Italian chef". Peeled tomatoes. The memory of the flavors of the past
In the underground cellar where the grandparents kept our preserves and the wines produced by the house in the cool and for a long time, surrounded by cemented brick walls from which dried sausages, cheeses and garlic heads hung, an enormous pantry housed a horizontal expanse on several shelves and vertical of glass jars, called "boccacci", containing peeled tomatoes.
The moment of the visit to the winery was the most awaited one of the entire summer spent in the countryside. When the grandfather asked me and my cousins to accompany him into the mysterious, strictly locked basement, we felt privileged.
In August, when we little ones saw a group of women in their fifties arriving accompanied by the freshness of their daughters' youth, we understood that it was time to prepare homemade peeled tomato preserves. A choral moment, lived intensely by all of us who witnessed the union of several families collaborating together with great compactness, armed with a lot of patience and joy, because once the preparation was finished, the women, including my grandmother, would have delivered the peeled tomatoes made at home to children, sisters, brothers and grandchildren.
The same women, gathered around the worktop, skilfully carved the skin of the tomatoes grown in the neighboring lands, carefully dipped them in deep aluminum pots filled with boiling water, then drained them and deprived them of the still hot skin. Once peeled, they were delicately placed in jars, then washed, closed and sterilized for a long time.
For an authentic flavor that takes me back to my childhood, I prefer in my preparations only peeled tomatoes that evoke the taste of my grandmother's.
From quick cooking, I lightly mash them with a fork and use them above all to dress red pizzas, first courses but also delicious second courses based on sauce such as the famous Neapolitan recipe of "meat with pizza".
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